Floor Sanding

Engineered timber flooring consists of a real hardwood top layer (called the wear layer) bonded onto multiple layers of high-density plywood or timber core. Unlike solid timber boards, which are one solid piece of wood throughout, engineered flooring is designed for superior structural stability while giving the exact same look and feel of real timber.

Yes, provided the top wear layer is thick enough! Engineered boards with a solid timber wear layer of 3mm to 6mm can typically be sanded and polished 1 to 3 times over their lifetime. However, boards with a thin veneer layer (under 2mm) cannot be sanded and can only be lightly buffed or recoated.

Before starting any work, a professional sander will inspect your floor, usually at an floor vent, edge, or doorway transition, to measure the exact thickness of the top hardwood wear layer. If there is at least 2mm–3mm of timber remaining above the tongue-and-groove joint, it can safely be sanded.

Yes! Once the existing factory finish or lacquer is sanded off, the genuine hardwood top layer can be stained, limewashed, or sealed with a water-based polyurethane just like traditional solid floorboards, allowing you to completely update your home's aesthetic.

For light to moderate surface scratches, a standard sand and refinish will restore the floor to like-new condition. If a single board suffers severe structural damage, it can be individually cut out and replaced by a flooring specialist without having to lift the entire floor.

Floor sanding is the mechanical process of removing the top worn layer, scratches, and old finishes from the timber using heavy-duty machinery. Floor polishing (or coating) is the application of protective sealers—such as polyurethane, oils, or lacquers—to protect the freshly exposed wood and give it your desired sheen level.

Yes, absolutely! Specialized techniques and rotary multi-disc sanders are used for delicate timber like finger parquet or engineered boards. As long as there is an adequate wear layer (usually 2mm–3mm minimum), we can safely sand and polish them back to original condition.

In high-traffic residential homes in Sydney, a minimum of 3 coats (typically a primer/base coat followed by two top coats) is recommended. This ensures deep timber penetration, proper film build, and maximum protection against spills and foot traffic.

A re-coat (or buff and coat) involves lightly scuffing the top clear coat without sanding down to raw timber, followed by applying a fresh top coat. This is suitable if your floors only have minor surface scuffs and the original timber beneath is still in good condition, saving both time and money.

Exposed nail heads can severely tear sanding belts, damage expensive machinery, and prevent an even finish. Punching nails 2–3mm below the timber surface allows us to fill the holes with a matching putty, creating a smooth, seamless floor once polished.

We use specialized hand-held edge sanders and corner scrapers designed specifically to sand right up to skirtings, kickboards, and doorframes. This guarantees an even finish across the entire floor without leaving line marks or dark borders.

Yes! Coarse sanding cuts across the grain at an angle to flatten timber boards that have slightly cupped or crowned due to past moisture exposure, creating a level surface before fine sanding and polishing.

Drying times depend on the finish used and Sydney’s weather conditions. Water-based polyurethanes generally dry in 2 to 4 hours per coat, allowing multiple coats on the same day. Solvent-based polyurethanes typically require 12 to 24 hoursof drying time between coats.